The Bottom of the Nerdhole: Miniature Painting Thread!

Music posts are a bannable offense.
User avatar
spacehamster
Sweet Lord _______
Posts: 18361
Joined: Mon Aug 06, 2007 5:57 pm
Location: just a-passin' thru

Wed Nov 27, 2019 3:33 am

I really don't think we should be clogging up the D&D thread with this, and since The Kill, Ross and I all wanted to do this, let's start a new thread and see how long it takes for Torsan to come and verbally pants the nerds.

I'm getting close to finishing my 2000-point Blades of Khorne army for Age of Sigmar and I'll post some more stuff soon, but for today, here's my second Slaughterpriest:

Image

Also, not Khorne related, but still one of my favorites that I've done, the King of Ruin from my favorite maker of minis, Creature Caster:

Image

More later.
storm shadow wrote:This is what happens when people use the internet to get through adolescence, instead of drugs and heavy metal.
User avatar
spacehamster
Sweet Lord _______
Posts: 18361
Joined: Mon Aug 06, 2007 5:57 pm
Location: just a-passin' thru

Wed Nov 27, 2019 3:58 am

Necrometer wrote:
Tue Nov 26, 2019 4:14 pm
I'm at a creative block with the shoggoths, though, because I have this vision of them ending up looking gooey/gelatinous, but I've never seen anyone attain this look with a mini. I'm thinking I'd paint the beastie, then clear-coat it somehow (ideally ending up truly clear/translucent, but a thick layer, not merely shiny/clear) and then paint again using a thin wash & coat again? or maybe just one clear coat is enough. the main thing I'm not sure of is whether any coating can be reasonably thick and still dry clear.
It doesn't show up that well in the pic of the King of Ruin above, but one thing I've done that's pretty close to what you're describing is really just slopping several coats of Citadel Ardcoat on pustules and boils to make them look like they're covered in pus and goo. That stuff can be applied very thickly and will still dry clear and glossy even on rough surfaces, it's kind of what it's designed for.

Alternatively, depending on the color you're trying to achieve, Citadel also has a couple of different varieties of clear paints, or you can just use Tamiya's. You can't use water to thin Tamiya paints, though, you'll either need isopropyl alcohol or their X-20A thinner.
storm shadow wrote:This is what happens when people use the internet to get through adolescence, instead of drugs and heavy metal.
User avatar
Necrometer
crippled god of the universe
Posts: 62023
Joined: Fri Aug 03, 2007 10:42 am
Location: Feelin' fine.
Contact:

Wed Nov 27, 2019 10:18 am

whoa - great work on those minis, especially KoR!

thanks for all the input. your strategy for layering with ardcoat sounds great. just knowing that it'll remain clear & glossy is a big boost for a n00b like me. this is a huge advantage over the "dunking" I was imagining because these things have cavernous mouths and it would be a shit show.

regarding the clear/oil options, I have plenty of access to isopropanol 🤓

thoughts on alternating layers of paint & clear coat? would that even give a cool effect, or not worth the trouble? like: paint the mini as usual, ardcoat (maybe a few times to build it), then apply clear paint, then re-ardcoat?

I will post some pics of the minis I've done so far, with near-zero pride. I've never figured out how to dry brush effectively (despite some effort), I have almost always suffered in the wake of thinning my paints, and I haven't even tried for the hyper-contrast thing where the cracks are extra-shadowy and the crests (?) are physically lighter. I get why people do it but it really didn't seem right for the player pieces in a lovecraftian game. and I want the shoggoths to stand out as monstrosities, so I guess I can push the contrast on them (which will be dampened by the gloss-coating a bit, I suspect).

I would say your minis don't push the contrast that aggressively, so maybe we see eye-to-eye on that. like, I get the artistry of something like this but I don't really want to look at it.
Image
good thing I'll be dead soon, cause I'm tired of liars winning
User avatar
spacehamster
Sweet Lord _______
Posts: 18361
Joined: Mon Aug 06, 2007 5:57 pm
Location: just a-passin' thru

Wed Nov 27, 2019 10:34 am

Necrometer wrote:
Wed Nov 27, 2019 10:18 am
thoughts on alternating layers of paint & clear coat? would that even give a cool effect, or not worth the trouble? like: paint the mini as usual, ardcoat (maybe a few times to build it), then apply clear paint, then re-ardcoat?
I dunno, it might work, but my guess is it'll come out looking too goopy. The trick for the stuff I've done on the KoR is more to paint something underneath that will look like pus or gore when it's shiny. And that's not too hard, you just slush around some different colors until it looks gross.

There's also really no way to conclusively figure this out until you try it. Take one of your minis and experiment until you have something you're happy with. You can always strip the paint with things like Dettol or strong degreasers.
I get the artistry of something like this but I don't really want to look at it.
Oh, I just don't paint like that because I can't.

Also, drybrushing is literally the easiest technique there is. What's the problem? What kind of brush and paints are you using?
storm shadow wrote:This is what happens when people use the internet to get through adolescence, instead of drugs and heavy metal.
User avatar
Necrometer
crippled god of the universe
Posts: 62023
Joined: Fri Aug 03, 2007 10:42 am
Location: Feelin' fine.
Contact:

Wed Nov 27, 2019 12:15 pm

cool - thanks. I have a junk mini that came with my reaper starter kit and have been testing stuff on it.

I feel like when I try to drybrush, the paint ends up totally drying on the brush, barely transferring. I have a couple dozen reaper MSP colors and brushes like this - nothing fancy but I don't feel like I encountered too much tool snobbery out there (just copious technique pro-tips and universal endorsement of thinning paint)

so I would say that a wash is literally the easiest technique there is!
Image
good thing I'll be dead soon, cause I'm tired of liars winning
User avatar
spacehamster
Sweet Lord _______
Posts: 18361
Joined: Mon Aug 06, 2007 5:57 pm
Location: just a-passin' thru

Wed Nov 27, 2019 2:40 pm

Necrometer wrote:
Wed Nov 27, 2019 12:15 pm
so I would say that a wash is literally the easiest technique there is!
Yeah, I dunno, maybe I find drybrushing easier because I'd already used it as a weathering technique for years on model kits before I started painting minis. The specific way you do washes in miniature painting where you just slop it all over the thing and then nudge it around until it looks right was really weird to me at first and took some practice to get a handle on.

Anyway, I think your problem is those brushes. Small round brushes don't really lend themselves well to drybrushing. What size brush you want to use depends on what you're working on, but generally, it's better to either use a flat brush or a round one that's gone totally frayed and a little stiff. The bristles on your brushes probably just give way too much and then the paint doesn't transfer to the model.

Also, just in case this needs to be pointed out, you don't thin your paints for drybrushing, and thicker paints work better. Thinned paint or a wet brush means streaks. Take it straight from the pot and do the paper towel wipe until you just see a little coming off. I don't know those Reaper paints, but if they're meant for hand brushing, they should be fine.
storm shadow wrote:This is what happens when people use the internet to get through adolescence, instead of drugs and heavy metal.
User avatar
Necrometer
crippled god of the universe
Posts: 62023
Joined: Fri Aug 03, 2007 10:42 am
Location: Feelin' fine.
Contact:

Wed Nov 27, 2019 3:53 pm

I was lazy with the link - I definitely have at least a couple of flat brushes. yeah your description of dry-brushing is exactly what I've been trying, but I just suck. nuance/subtlety/delicacy has never been my thing. maybe it's just a character flaw. I painted a few models as a kid (I think my dad was trying to re-live his childhood through me) but I sure as hell never weathered anything. paying the price now, clearly...

back to positive thoughts, I LOVE how washes work. how cool is it that a bit of tint just naturally pools in nooks & crannies? it's like the magnetic lasso in photoshop (does anyone still use that!?!?), sort of "snaps" to the correct position.
Image
good thing I'll be dead soon, cause I'm tired of liars winning
User avatar
spacehamster
Sweet Lord _______
Posts: 18361
Joined: Mon Aug 06, 2007 5:57 pm
Location: just a-passin' thru

Thu Nov 28, 2019 2:15 am

Necrometer wrote:
Wed Nov 27, 2019 3:53 pm
I was lazy with the link - I definitely have at least a couple of flat brushes. yeah your description of dry-brushing is exactly what I've been trying, but I just suck. nuance/subtlety/delicacy has never been my thing. maybe it's just a character flaw.
Yeah, maybe you just need to slow it down a bit. You really get the best results by doing several passes and building it up slowly. Alternatively, try it with a little too much paint on the brush just to get a feel for what happens when the paint actually does transfer.

Anyway, if you feel like the finer points of miniature painting aren't for you and you just want to get stuff "tabletop ready", as they say, I'd really say since you're comfortable with washes, you're already basically there, but if you can figure out how to drybrush, you could double the quality of your work by spending like five more minutes on it. I actually still do most of my edge highlights with drybrushing rather than proper edge highlighting because a) I suck at it and b) I don't really like that overworked Games Workshop look where every edge is highlighted anyway.
back to positive thoughts, I LOVE how washes work. how cool is it that a bit of tint just naturally pools in nooks & crannies? it's like the magnetic lasso in photoshop (does anyone still use that!?!?), sort of "snaps" to the correct position.
Uh yeah, it's called surface tension, Mr. Science Guy. :lol:

Anyway, washes are used differently on non-organic models, so it was really weird to me at first how it works sometimes and other times you have to make sure you don't get coffee staining on large areas or it runs downward and pools at the bottom. Obviously it's not complicated, but it took a bit of practice.
storm shadow wrote:This is what happens when people use the internet to get through adolescence, instead of drugs and heavy metal.
User avatar
Necrometer
crippled god of the universe
Posts: 62023
Joined: Fri Aug 03, 2007 10:42 am
Location: Feelin' fine.
Contact:

Thu Nov 28, 2019 11:55 am

spacehamster wrote:
Thu Nov 28, 2019 2:15 am
Uh yeah, it's called surface tension, Mr. Science Guy. :lol:
welllll surface tension is can be a huge pain in the ass when you're trying to move around a millionth of a liter, so it was a pleasant surprise when it was helping for a change. and I maintain that it's cool that physics helps make crevices shadowy.

I hope this isn't labsplaining, but adding a bit (5-10%?) of isopropanol (or other co-solvents) can drastically impact the surface tension. not sure if that would ever be useful when painting...

Image

here's my player pieces from cthulhu pandemic, most shameful efforts on the bottom. I started with those tiny cultists, which are half-size and there are like 25 of 'em! some of these were really phoned in (bottom-right). sorceress basically didn't have eyes so that was a massive pain. I know the top people's eye-dots look kinda ridiculous, but I couldn't transfer a smaller spot of paint without it drying en route.

I actually have one left to do - the physician - and he's going to be black in honor of Dr. Hibbert and as a rebuke to HPL less PC leanings :o
Image
good thing I'll be dead soon, cause I'm tired of liars winning
User avatar
THE KILL
I hate my life.
Posts: 4056
Joined: Thu Nov 08, 2007 12:52 pm

Sat Nov 30, 2019 4:32 am

ZH&ey man don't put so much6 pressure on yourself, your stuff's g5ood tabletop standard. It looks cool from wh6ere th6e players sit, you don't want to win any awards.

Pretty solid work th6ere, Spaceh6amster; th6e Nurg5le arch6demon is especially nice. Th6e flayed skin for th6e Korne ch6ampion is a nice touch6.
Btw sorry for th6e numbers all over th6e place, my laptop's keyboard is broken.

Anyway, h6ere's a couple of sh6itty pics of my Zombicide Invader minis:

Image
Image
Image

Yeah6, th6e mold lines stand out quite badly, but it was a speedüaint job, and th6e minis look g5ood if looked at from a couple of feet away:
Image

Mostly just zenith6al h6ig5h6lig5h6ted th6em via airbrush6, applied mixtures of different wash6es, rinse and repeat. So g5lad I took th6e plung5e and g5ot an airbrush6 (ch6eers for th6e h6elp, SPaceh6amster!), painting5 by h6and sucks and takes forever.
The Bill wrote:Kids today with their artificially flavored kunt hands!
User avatar
spacehamster
Sweet Lord _______
Posts: 18361
Joined: Mon Aug 06, 2007 5:57 pm
Location: just a-passin' thru

Sat Nov 30, 2019 2:31 pm

Yeah, zenithal highlighting is pretty much my favorite magic trick. It's how I did the skin on the Nurgle demon, and I really need to use it more often. I'm just always a bit nervous about painting by hand around airbrushed parts because it's hard to fix mistakes, but I'm finding more and more that if you just use the same paint with a brush it blends in well enough, especially since you're inevitably going to slop a wash over it. Anyway, I like your Chthulhu type critter best I think, but obviously your general painting style works really well for these particular minis.

The skin on the Slaughterpriest is just meant to be demonic, by the way - my first one has the usual pale skin/red armor combo that everyone does, so I wanted to do something different for the second one and I thought since he's got horns growing out of him everywhere, that means he's turning into a demon.

Ross, listen to this man - your stuff looks fine for tabletop use. If you're looking for ways to improve, I think you could go a bit heavier on the washes in general, and don't use pure white for the eyes, they actually never look that way in real life, and if you just knock the white back a bit, like to a very pale version of the skin tone, you'll instantly get faces that are 80% less cartoonish, if you're worried about that.
storm shadow wrote:This is what happens when people use the internet to get through adolescence, instead of drugs and heavy metal.
User avatar
THE KILL
I hate my life.
Posts: 4056
Joined: Thu Nov 08, 2007 12:52 pm

Sun Dec 01, 2019 6:48 am

Necrometer wrote:
Wed Nov 27, 2019 10:18 am

thoughts on alternating layers of paint & clear coat? would that even give a cool effect, or not worth the trouble? like: paint the mini as usual, ardcoat (maybe a few times to build it), then apply clear paint, then re-ardcoat?
Not sure wh6at effect you'd want to ach6ieve with6 th6at. Varnish6ing5 between layers of paint makes sense if you want to protect a layer from abrasion. My g5uess is it won't g5et you wh6at you want.
Necrometer wrote:
Wed Nov 27, 2019 10:18 am
I've never figured out how to dry brush effectively (despite some effort), I have almost always suffered in the wake of thinning my paints, and I haven't even tried for the hyper-contrast thing where the cracks are extra-shadowy and the crests (?) are physically lighter. I get why people do it but it really didn't seem right for the player pieces in a lovecraftian game. and I want the shoggoths to stand out as monstrosities, so I guess I can push the contrast on them (which will be dampened by the gloss-coating a bit, I suspect).
Drybrush6ing is easy, it just takes a little practice. Make sure you do not th6in your paints - if th6ey're too th6in out of th6e pot, try putting5 a bit on your palette and let it dry until it's barely liquid. WOrk it into th6e brush6 you want to drybrush6 with6 (make sure th6e brush6 is absolutely dry), th6en pull your brush6 over a paper towel until it looks like your it doesn't g5ive off any more paint. Continue for a couple more seconds - you want almost no paint left on your brush6. Test on a black or dark piece of paper (if it's a lig5h6t colour) or a wh6ite piece of paper (if it's a darker colour). Now lig5h6tly g5o over th6e mini you want to drybrush6 and watch6 as th6e colour is built up on th6e prominent areas. It can take many flicks, but th6at's cool, you don't want to smoth6er your mini in paint. Ch6eck th6is g5uy's video out, he explains it quite well:



As for the rest, clearcoating5 does not really diminish6 th6e contrasts on your mini, but wash6es do. Just paint hig5h6lig5h6ts, th6en cover th6e wh6ole area with6 th6e corresponding wash (remember th6at most of th6e wash6 will pool wh6ere your brush6 leaves th6e model, so don't pull your brush6 wh6ere th6e h6ig5h6lig5h6ts are supposed to be); th6is will integ5rate th6e highlights and make th6e folds etc. even darker.
The Bill wrote:Kids today with their artificially flavored kunt hands!
User avatar
THE KILL
I hate my life.
Posts: 4056
Joined: Thu Nov 08, 2007 12:52 pm

Sun Dec 01, 2019 7:04 am

spacehamster wrote:
Sat Nov 30, 2019 2:31 pm
I'm just always a bit nervous about painting by hand around airbrushed parts because it's hard to fix mistakes
ha yeah6. but it's true, wash6es will make your mistakes th6at much6 h6arder to see. I used to th6ink th6at mistakes must with6out fail be eradicated or not be made in th6e first place, but recently I've focused on becoming5 faster and more efficient instead of obsessing5 over details. I'd probably quit ag5ain soon if I kept on doing5 it like I used to... mini painting5 drives you insane if you let it.
spacehamster wrote:
Sat Nov 30, 2019 2:31 pm

The skin on the Slaughterpriest is just meant to be demonic, by the way - my first one has the usual pale skin/red armor combo that everyone does, so I wanted to do something different for the second one and I thought since he's got horns growing out of him everywhere, that means he's turning into a demon.
eith6er way h6e looks cool. h6ey, if you ever ch6ang5e your mind h6ow about g5iving5 h6is skin a coat of clear varnish6? you know, make it look like h6is skin is fresh6ly peeled ... I'm imag5ining5 a brutal band of Ch6aos barbarians who all h6ave flayed skin...
The Bill wrote:Kids today with their artificially flavored kunt hands!
User avatar
spacehamster
Sweet Lord _______
Posts: 18361
Joined: Mon Aug 06, 2007 5:57 pm
Location: just a-passin' thru

Sun Dec 01, 2019 10:58 am

THE KILL wrote:
Sun Dec 01, 2019 7:04 am
mini painting drives you insane if you let it.
Yeah, you really have to teach yourself to leave well enough at some point. "Just one more round of touchups" can kinda become a... thing.
I'm imag5ining5 a brutal band of Ch6aos barbarians who all h6ave flayed skin...
You know, that would actually work for my next batch of Bloodreavers AND it wouldn't be too hard to do. If I do another batch of Reavers, that is. I did lots of open wounds on this guy:

Image

Image

It was actually really easy - base coat with some off-white/bone color (I used Screaming Skull, but I DON'T recommend that, it's a horrible paint for large surfaces), wash a couple times with red, gloss coat, done. Super easy and looks gross as fuck.
storm shadow wrote:This is what happens when people use the internet to get through adolescence, instead of drugs and heavy metal.
User avatar
spacehamster
Sweet Lord _______
Posts: 18361
Joined: Mon Aug 06, 2007 5:57 pm
Location: just a-passin' thru

Mon Dec 02, 2019 9:45 am

Alright, this guy's the last model I needed to paint to complete my 2000 points of Blades of Khorne:

Image

And here's the whole army.

Image

It's kind of jarring for me because that Bloodthirster in the middle is the first Warhammer model I ever painted in August of last year, so obviously I've progressed a lot and some of the earlier paintjobs look like ass to me. The BT's okay, I just wish his base didn't look like a goddamn pizza. I'll have to fix that next. But right now I'm working on a giant Skaven model from Forgeworld.
storm shadow wrote:This is what happens when people use the internet to get through adolescence, instead of drugs and heavy metal.
User avatar
THE KILL
I hate my life.
Posts: 4056
Joined: Thu Nov 08, 2007 12:52 pm

Mon Dec 02, 2019 10:56 am

spacehamster wrote:
Mon Dec 02, 2019 9:45 am
Image
Niccccccce. Very clean, effective colour sch6eme, and th6e g5lowing5 effect on h6is body works well.

TG%ood job on teh6 Unclean one, too, I was g5onna say th6ose open wounds look absolutely disg5usting5. I'll steal your tech6nique for th6at... cong5rats on finish6ing5 an army, I h6ave never in my life finish6ed even a th6ousand points worth6 of Warh6ammer minis...

If you want to improve on teh6 Blood Th6irster's base, maybe Ag5rellan Earth6 over lava would fit th6e th6eme of your army well?

The Bill wrote:Kids today with their artificially flavored kunt hands!
User avatar
spacehamster
Sweet Lord _______
Posts: 18361
Joined: Mon Aug 06, 2007 5:57 pm
Location: just a-passin' thru

Mon Dec 02, 2019 11:51 am

THE KILL wrote:
Mon Dec 02, 2019 10:56 am

If you want to improve on teh6 Blood Th6irster's base, maybe Ag5rellan Earth6 over lava would fit th6e th6eme of your army well?
I guess it's not visible enough in the pics, but that's exactly what I do on my bases - I used to do it with Martian Ironearth and then sponge black on it, but GW has since come out with a black crackle paint called Mordant Earth, so all you have to do anymore is slop some yellow and orange on the base, put the Mordant Earth on top and boom, done, lava.
storm shadow wrote:This is what happens when people use the internet to get through adolescence, instead of drugs and heavy metal.
User avatar
THE KILL
I hate my life.
Posts: 4056
Joined: Thu Nov 08, 2007 12:52 pm

Mon Dec 02, 2019 1:18 pm

uuuh rig5h6t. Looks like you can buy crackle paint in all sorts fo colours nowadays?! GW's tech6nical paints all seem to be really good. I remember wh6en we h6ad to mix our own blood out of red acrylic paint and wood g5lue.

Image
The Bill wrote:Kids today with their artificially flavored kunt hands!
User avatar
spacehamster
Sweet Lord _______
Posts: 18361
Joined: Mon Aug 06, 2007 5:57 pm
Location: just a-passin' thru

Mon Dec 02, 2019 2:32 pm

Yeah, the GW texture paints are great. Too expensive, like everything GW makes, but they're super simple to use and reliable. Because I had to make so many lava bases, I looked around quite a bit for better crackle paint solutions, and pretty much everything I found seemed like a giant pain in the ass compared to just slopping one of GW's products on and getting exactly what I wanted.

Having said that, I really like fucking around with cheap materials on dioramas as well. One of my favorite techniques is making mud out of potting soil and PVA glue. Costs nothing and you can make gigantic mud and/or desert dioramas with it.
storm shadow wrote:This is what happens when people use the internet to get through adolescence, instead of drugs and heavy metal.
User avatar
THE KILL
I hate my life.
Posts: 4056
Joined: Thu Nov 08, 2007 12:52 pm

Tue Dec 03, 2019 1:52 pm

It's expensive as sh6it, aye. Still worth6 it. I was able to base 80 Zombicide minis with a pot of GW's crackle paint and th6ere's still some left. ZH&ave you tried th6eir (also stupidly expensive) contrast paints?

I like to use natural materials for dioramas whenever I can. Earth6 from a flower pot th6at is h6ardened with6 super g5lue (or, if I h6ave to use it in g5reater quantities, I first douse it in IPA, th6en add watered down wood g5lue) looks amazing5ly real due to all th6e tiny twig5s, pieces of dead insects etc. it h6as in it. After storms I like g5oing5 for a walk in forests; you can saw off th6e roots of uprooted trees to use as creepy ch6aos+-infested trees (I found repeatedly spraying5 th6em with6 watered down wood g5lue not only h6ardens th6em, but makes th6e twig5s elastic since th6e wood absorbs th6e g5lue). Sometimes you find skulls in th6e woods - just a couple of month6s ag5o I found wh6at my biolog5y teach6er friend th6inks is a badg5er skull.
The Bill wrote:Kids today with their artificially flavored kunt hands!
User avatar
spacehamster
Sweet Lord _______
Posts: 18361
Joined: Mon Aug 06, 2007 5:57 pm
Location: just a-passin' thru

Thu Dec 05, 2019 3:47 pm

Finished this guy today. Warpgnaw Verminlord from Forgeworld. It's rare that I'm really happy with how a paintjob comes out, but this is one I'm happy with. There's just something about the slightly more raw feel of these FW models that works for me - the Great Unclean One is another one that I'm still totally happy with even though it's too simple and I wish I'd done some airbrush work on it. This one's a wild combo of almost everything in my toolbox - I'm slowly learning to be less limited by plans and processes and to just do what seems like it'll look right.

Image

Image

Image

Also, I fucking love Skaven. Best species in all of Warhammer.
storm shadow wrote:This is what happens when people use the internet to get through adolescence, instead of drugs and heavy metal.
User avatar
FVBTVS
Sweet Lord _______
Posts: 15176
Joined: Thu Feb 21, 2013 2:14 pm

Thu Dec 05, 2019 4:01 pm

that nurgle fucking rules
Chad wrote:
Wed May 15, 2019 4:01 pm
cool dudes like us
User avatar
THE KILL
I hate my life.
Posts: 4056
Joined: Thu Nov 08, 2007 12:52 pm

Fri Dec 06, 2019 6:57 am

I always liked Skaven best, too; th6e concept works so well, and GW made th6e most of it. Btw h6as th6ere been a rerelease of th6e "h6amster wh6eel" warmach6ine in Ag5e of Sig5mar?.
G%ood work especially on th6e base. I like h6ow varied it is, cracked earth6 and wet earth6/ a puddle wh6ere th6e sun wouldn't be able to touch6 th6e g5round.
The Bill wrote:Kids today with their artificially flavored kunt hands!
User avatar
spacehamster
Sweet Lord _______
Posts: 18361
Joined: Mon Aug 06, 2007 5:57 pm
Location: just a-passin' thru

Fri Dec 06, 2019 10:20 am

THE KILL wrote:
Fri Dec 06, 2019 6:57 am
I always liked Skaven best, too; th6e concept works so well, and GW made th6e most of it. Btw h6as th6ere been a rerelease of th6e "h6amster wh6eel" warmach6ine in Ag5e of Sig5mar?.
The Doomwheel? There's a plastic model, but I think it's from the WHFB days, it still came with a rectangular base until the new Skaven Battletome was released a few months ago. Looks awesome, though, I don't think it needs an update. I have one, and I need to paint it soon.

https://www.games-workshop.com/en-WW/Skaven-Doomwheel
storm shadow wrote:This is what happens when people use the internet to get through adolescence, instead of drugs and heavy metal.
User avatar
FVBTVS
Sweet Lord _______
Posts: 15176
Joined: Thu Feb 21, 2013 2:14 pm

Fri Dec 06, 2019 10:37 am

i said

THAT NURGLE FUCKING RULES
Chad wrote:
Wed May 15, 2019 4:01 pm
cool dudes like us
Post Reply